The People

We are the Yolngu people of Ramingining, in the northern part of Central Arnhem Land in Australia's Northern Territory.

Ramingining is a town of about 800 of our people. More of our people live on outstations different distances from town. Also about 50 Balanda live here.

The nearest other town is Maningrida, more than two hours drive away except in the rainy season, when we can only fly there.

In Ramingining we have a store, a clinic, a school, a new police station, an arts centre, a resource centre, houses and not much else.

But we have history and culture here, that our ancestors have been growing for more than forty thousand years.

They passed that culture on from generation to generation. Now it's our turn to pass it on, not just to the next generation, but to people everywhere, all over the world.

That's because our way of life is changing fast now, and what you can see on this website is for every generation to remember and keep our culture alive.



Taken from http://www.12canoes.com.au/

Saturday, May 28, 2011

day one hundred and fourteen - farewell to a very special man

27th May 2011 - 11:45pm

This week we've had to say goodbye to one of the most loved and well-respected members of Ramingining community.

He was an Indigenous member of the East Arnhem Shire Council (who Ben works for), and was the Head of the School Council. But I remember meeting him and his wife Miya on my first day in Ramingining and feeling completely welcome. He had a big friendly voice, and a huge white-teethed smile. Miya is beautiful too, and as the cultural advisor at the school, I see her most days. She always greets me with 'hello Helen'. For the first few weeks she checked if she was getting my name right, and I corrected her. But now it just feels normal that she calls me Helen. I really don't know how the community will manage without him. Although not a traditional owner of the land, he was a figurehead for the community, pushing for anything and everything in the interests of the community. We've talked to the Year 11 and 12s about being the next leaders of the community, and now they're going to have to make that big step up.

He passed away Wednesday night after not feeling quite right for the last few weeks. He went to a Council meeting in Jabiru, but flew home early because he was not feeling well. The clinic gave him the all clear to fly, and he made it home - just. From what I've heard, he passed away not long after arriving back at his home. I really do feel that sometimes people know that they're dying, and have the power to hold off until they're with their family. And he did just that.

Out of respect for his family, the school was closed yesterday. There was a staff briefing to tell those who were not aware of the situation, and I've never seen a group of people looking so drained before. School was meant to be back on again today, but in the staff briefing, the Principal said that the smoking ceremony had not occurred yesterday, so we had to wait with the students (those who had come to school) on the basketball courts until it was done.

I was so honoured to have the chance to take part in the ceremony. The high school boys were asked by Linda (an Indigenous lady who works at the school, and is also Ben's adopted auntie) to collect the branches and bark for the fire. The girls were allowed to help collect the bark, but only the boys could do the ceremony. Some other family members and men from the community also came along for the ceremony.

They lit the fire in the middle of the school grounds, and we all had to gather around, females on the right, males on the left. The men were jumping and singing, and the ladies were swaying and saying 'yo' I think, which means yes. Then the boys took smoking branches of leaves and used them to hit all of the entrances to the buildings of the school, and then ran through the buildings doing the same. The smoking is meant to get rid of the spirits I think. Then we all had to take a small piece of branch and use it to hit both sides of our chest. Then the Indigenous men and women came around with the branches and did the same to our shoulders and backs.

It was a really emotional experience to be part of. No-one was crying, although I certainly felt a tear in my eye. It's the most amazing ritual, and I felt really special to be included. The funeral is likely to take place over the next few weeks, and hopefully I'll be able to experience that as well.



*I haven't mentioned his name is respect of the community's tradition.

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

day one hundred and twelve - coloured sports day

25th May 2011 - 11:20pm


Well, it really has been too long since I've written, but I've been a busy, busy girl!

I started up at the school on teaching placement during April, and within my first few weeks I got to take part in the 'Coloured sports day'. Although it sounds really racist, at first I thought that it meant Indigenous sports. How rude did I feel when I realised it was just what we'd call a normal sports carnival in Tassie, where the kids are divided into four colours - red, yellow, blue and green. Whoops. But it was an honest mistake.

I knew I wouldn't be much help organising the students, because I had not gained their trust yet, and relationships are so important up here. But to get involved, I offered to take photos during the day. So I have some incredible photos, but for cultural reasons I'm not allowed to put them up, so you'll just have to imagine what they look like until I can show you in person.

The first hour of the day was spent face painting. What an awesome morning! The captains and vice captains were in charge of getting everyone painted. What surprised me was that they were using plain old painting style paint! In Tassie, I'm sure that wouldn't be heard of - you'd have to use face paint or makeup! They painted all of the teachers too, and most of their clothes as well.

Then we all headed to the community oval for the day. It was completely different to how I remember our school sports carnivals. I guess to begin with, I DESPISED sport, and whenever I could I either got Mum to call in sick (I can't remember if I pretended to be sick, or was so upset Mum was doing the pretending), or didn't put in any effort. I must have been hoping that people would think that I might have been good if I'd actually tried... But it was so completely different here. The kids were all, honestly, cheering each other on. Every single one of them. The slow ones, the fast ones, the fat ones, the skinny ones. And just for giving it a crack. Yeah the kids got ribbons if they won, but I didn't see any sign of bullying or teasing because someone didn't do well. That's one of the things I love most about the people up here - they are so accepting of everyone, no matter what. It really is a beautiful thing to see.

Even the transition (prep in Tassie) class did their tiny little relay. The teachers had a relay race against the students. And the cutest thing was to see the young disabled boy, Geoff, having a race against one of the teachers (another Geoff, who is about 6'6"), and the little Geoff winning and getting a ribbon. The crowd were all cheering, and it was really honest, heartfelt cheering. And, I almost forgot to say, they were ALL barefoot. Even the year 10 student Ricky who's about 7' tall and ran like the wind.

Morning tea was icypoles and massive drums of water, and was all provided to the kids. They were all under a makeshift stage covered in tarps for shelter. The oval wasn't all mowed because it would've taken too long with the hand mower, so only the 400m line was mowed. Lunch was a BBQ back at school, again, all provided to the kids and staff.

The afternoon was spent with the little kids doing egg and spoon and sack races on the basketball courts, while I was down with the older ones on the the oval doing javelin, shotput and discus. There were a few issues between teachers about the positioning of the events for safety, but it's nothing like the setting up that you would see in a mainstream school.

The kids who did well, and continue to attend school, will be part of the Arnhem Sports carnival (all of the schools in Arnhem Land) in a few weeks time, so I'll look forward to helping out then too.

Monday, May 2, 2011

day eighty eight - the barge road

1st May 2011 - 1:40am


After a few stressful weeks for Ben at work dealing with the whole community complaining about the state of the roads, it's finally driveable again. We've been really lucky that the rain completely stopped. It had been raining daily, then one day it just decided to stop. And the dragonflies started to appear, which signals the start of the dry.

Ben brought in Dave from Gove to help with the monstrous project. Dave's probably the most Aussie guy I've ever seen. Unshaven, flanny and shorts only slightly longer than Stubbies. Huge beard and a long rat's tail. Looks like he's just got off the back of a Harley. Dave travels around the communities in the Northern Territory working on the community access roads, so was the perfect person for the job. What an amazing job he did. To single-handedly get the road from the disaster it was a few weeks ago, to driveable with only a couple of foot-deep puddles was an amazing feat.

Last weekend Ben and I went for a drive to check it out. I was quite excited, because it would be the first time in ten weeks that I've seen the water. It might seem strange, but I've always lived near the water, and although I'm not one to jump in whenever I can, I love it. I feel safer on the water than I do anywhere else. It reminds me of how relaxed I always am when I'm at the shack. Heading along the road, I was so surprised to see the difference in the land as we headed towards the water. Around Ramingining the bush all looks the same. And I mean exactly the same. There's green grass that's about a foot tall, some cycads that are a foot to a few feet tall, and then there are the gums and palms that are around three metres tall. And everything is green. The same bright shade of green.


The usual Ramingining greenery

But heading towards the water, all of a sudden it changed. We drove past a billabong with it's beautiful water lillies (and maybe a croc or two), and not far after that, the trees stopped. Although it wasn't farming land, it immediately changed to grass. And it was brown, not green like all of the land around Ramingining. And then we reached the water.



Sitting next to the barge landing under the shade of a tree were two locals who said they were waiting until later to catch some mud crabs. I went down for a bit of a sticky beak, and was lucky enough to see a huge one scurrying under a rock. I called out, and the locals ran down with sticks and bare feet, reading to jump in. It was hiding under a rock, so the guy used the sticks to scare the crab out. We had to leave him to it, but he told me that once it came out from its hiding place, he would just pick it up by the huge front claws. Bugger that for a joke.



How lucky was I, that Dave would be leaving the following day, and had a spare crab that he'd caught that I could have. I don't remember having crab before, but he told me it would be similar to crayfish - my favourite food in the world! He brought it around, and I managed to clean the whole thing by myself. Well, I didn't really have a choice, since Ben was dry retching even at the thought. It was worth it - it tasted amazing! Now it's heading into the dry season, I'll certainly be looking for someone to take me fishing...



Monday, April 4, 2011

day sixty - stranded

4th April 2011 - 11:40pm


We're stuck. No kidding.

This wet season (summer) has been the wettest on record. Well, at least for a long time anyway. Since I've been here it's rained probably every second day. But the last fortnight has been shocking - rain every afternoon. And when it rains here, it BUCKETS down. I've never seen anything like it. I'll never complain again about the rain in Tassie. Although admittedly, it's still 30oC every day. The plus side of the rain is that everything here is amazingly green. The bush over our back fence is the most beautiful bright green I've ever seen. But the negative side is that the roads can't handle it.

The roads here are made of some kind of bright orange stuff. None of this cement and concrete stuff like at home. The grader is meant to make the road into a convex type shape, with 'drains' along the side that then have offshoots into the bush to drain the water off. But when the rain buckets down, the whole thing turns to mud, and the grading really makes no difference at all. The result is the road to the airport being closed, and the road to the barge landing is also closed. So no way out.

But also no way in. The barge is our method of getting groceries into the local shop, and the only way to feed the community. The shop is pretty small, so within a few weeks, the shop could run out of food. It's also the only way in for fuel. The fuel is obviously used for cars, although the community is pretty small, so you could probably walk everywhere you needed to. The major issue is that we're running low on fuel for the grader and digger, which are our only ways of improving the road. And we only have enough fuel to provide electricity for the community for another week. So, it's kinda drastic. And given Ben's job, the poor darling has to deal with the whole lot, including everyone in the community whinging to him about it...

But things should be ok. Ben's got 40 tonnes of rocks coming in on Tuesday, so hopefully that will be enough to improve the road for a few kilometres so the fuel and food can get in. And hopefully there'll be some assistance after that as well. Stay tuned, and in the mean time, check out the YouTube video and photos...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMtqgD6WZqI









day sixty - the indigenous funeral

4th April 2011 - 11:15pm

Well, what a couple of culturally amazing weeks. Obviously it's not a happy time for the families, but we've spent the last few weeks in the midst of funerals galore. There have been at least three in the community, and from a community of only 800 people, that's a sizeable number. Although I guess they say that things come in threes...

One of the funerals was next door to our house, so we got the whole experience. We were told that our neighbours mother had passed away on the Saturday, and that the funeral is usually held at the house of one of the deceased person's children. Things were fairly quiet over the weekend though, because they had to finish the funeral down the road before they started the one here. The same people go to a lot of funerals, so only one can happen at a time. But when it had started, we couldn't miss it. Family started to arrive on the weekend, so the already full house now had three tents on the balcony, and there would have been at least 50 people staying there, I'd say. The body arrived at the house over the weekend too, and that's when things started.

The body was in some kind of coffin, and a couple of ladies started the wailing. They were throwing themselves forwards. Although I guess it was what I should have expected after seeing similar things on movies and documentaries, it still surprised me. I'm still not sure if they do it because they're upset, or it's a way of expressing themselves like dance and music. Then the music started. The family were all outside the front of the house, the women seated under the tree in a semi-circle, and the men in another semi-circle facing the driveway, away from the house. All of a sudden (well to me it was anyway), one of the men would start playing the clap sticks, and another would chime in with the didgeridoo. Then a group of men, including some teenage boys, started dancing. They jumped forward, holding and waving leaves and chanting. I don't really know how else to describe it, but every time I heard them sing, it would remind me of Yothu Yindi's song 'Treaty'. They were making different movements, I assume representing different animals or spirits, and were all completely in time. After playing in the pipe band for years, and having learnt that it takes years to perfect the memory that certain musical sounds from the bagpipes relate to certain beats and spins for me on the tenor drum, I had no idea how they did it. It was like they just knew what each other was going to do, without it being completely choreographed. It was absolutely incredible.

The singing and music went on for days. As a general rule, the local indigenous people don't get up until around 10am, but don't go to bed until the wee hours of the morning. So this meant that their music started at around lunch time, but didn't stop until they went to bed at around 2 or 3am. Every single night for the week. What an incredible demonstration of love for their deceased relative. I know that for us, we're exhausted after a 1 hour funeral.

The body left the house the next Saturday for the burial in a nearby outstation. They placed the body in a 4WD, again with the women wailing. The 4WD drove off with its horn tooting the whole way to the outstation. Ben said that often they drive around the town with the horn going to signal that someone has died, and it seems as though they do the same thing when the body leaves as well.

After the body had left, they performed a smoking ceremony. They lit some branches, the same ones they were dancing with, and waved them in any place that the body had been. Throughout the house, inside the car, all around the house. Ben said they would also have performed the ceremony in the shop or anywhere else in the community if the person had been in there recently.

And then it was all over. Until the next funeral down the road a few days later...

Friday, March 18, 2011

day forty three - one month in

18th March 2011 - 7:30pm


Well, I've made it! One month in (after my little holiday beforehand) and going strong! I'm really enjoying my new life here. Obviously there are so many differences to my life in Tassie, and it's so exciting to think of how much I will learn.

I've been really busy with my Uni course. There is so much more work than I was expecting. But I'm doing ALL of the reading, and ALL of the tasks assigned, so I guess I'm probably doing a lot more than some of the other students. But maybe it's because the course is only for one year. I've got subjects on child development (cognitive, physical, social and emotional), incorporating literacy and assessment and reporting. I'm actually finding it fascinating - maybe I've found my calling in life. I'll be chatting to the Principal from the local school next week to hopefully organise the practical component of my course (30 days this semester, and 50 next semester) and to do some work up there as well.

We've got some interesting things going on in Ramo at the moment. The Homelands Resource Centre, which was in charge of all of the outstations, has gone bust. Which means the Council (where Ben works) has had to take on a lot more. Also, the road that goes to the barge - where basically everything is sent into the community - is in really bad shape. The roads apparently weren't fully fixed last dry season, and this has been the wettest wet season on record. So the roads are covered in water, and cars and trucks are continually being bogged. The major problem is that the ALPA (Arnhem Land Progress Association) store uses that road to get all of the groceries in for the community. It's also the way our Coles Online orders come in. So if we don't get the road fixed soon, we'll have NO food in the community. Could be interesting. It's just lucky that I always go overboard shopping, so we've got enough food to probably live for two years. Although I'm not sure what I'm going to make with flour, golden syrup and tinned beetroot...

I have also just signed the papers to become a Special Area Supervisor for the national census that will be happening in August. It basically means I have to map out all of the houses in Ramingining and the outstations (some of which are probably 100km away), and employ the collector/interviewers. It means I'll have a lot of opportunity to talk to the locals, working out who lives where and who owns what land. Then we'll have to assign the collector/interviewers to appropriate houses. Because there are poison cousins, and people are from different families, only some people will be allowed in certain houses. And because literacy is low here, each household needs to be interviewed. In most of Australia, the forms are dropped off, and someone picks them up. Here, you can have up to 30 people living in a house, and it can take up to 8 hours to do the interview so that all of the questions are answered properly. So it'll be a huge challenge, but a fantastic way to integrate into the community. Assuming I do everything the right way!

So now for a nice relaxing weekend...

Sunday, March 6, 2011

day thirty one - goin' shootin'

6th March 2011 - 5:00pm


Most of you will probably know (if not personally, then from reading previous blog posts), that I DO NOT do extreme sports. But according to Ben, this year I'll be pushing my boundaries, and doing things I never would've seen myself doing before. So yesterday we went shootin'.

Ben bought a 0.22 rifle (or something like that, to me it's a big gun) when he was working in Gapuwiyak, but hadn't used it since arriving in Ramingining last July because he wasn't sure where it was safe to set up a target. After chatting to his work mate Tony in the morning, he had worked out that there was a quarry out near the airport that was a fantastic spot for setting up targets. So off we went.

I thought I was going to be watching Ben do the shooting, and trying not to jump a mile in the air when he took a shot. That was the case for about 30 rounds, but then it was my turn. I would never have seen myself shooting before I got up here, but I guess I am meant to be throwing myself into the way of life up here - and people often head out shooting here.

I have to admit, I actually had fun! And I wasn't too bad! Not quite as good as Ben was, but it was my first go. We had a bit of fun with Ben aiming for a water bottle and making it explode, so next time we're going to take up some shaken cans of pepsi max (they're on special here at the moment because they're nearly out of date, otherwise we couldn't afford it).


 This is what the 'highway' looks like.





 Ok, so he's a pretty good shot...

 Some of the smaller ant hills which are everywhere.



 Not quite as good as Ben, but gave it a crack! The ones on the outside lines were meant to be there.

 Good shot, Ben!


Time to head home - didn't want to get caught in the thunderstorm.


Two weeks in to my new life at Ramo, and I'm almost a new person!